Woman’s Fashion
1840 – 1847 | |
Bodice | Long and tight with fan-shaped gathering; pointed in the front; back fastening. |
Neckline | Wide, shallow, horizontal neckline gradually gets narrower. |
Sleeves | Long, tight to arm, with tight oversleeve on upper arms. |
Accessories | Fingerless gloves; gold watches on a long chain; caps, bonnets; ribbon bracelets. |
Hair | Large combs; centre part; close to head; long ringlets. |
1848 – 1852 | |
Bodice | Long and tight with fan-shaped; pointed in the front; could be padded; back fastening. |
Neckline | High stand collar. |
Sleeves | Three-quarter or long flaring out towards bottom in bell shape worn over white undersleeve. |
Accessories | Fingerless gloves; gold watches on a long chain; caps, bonnets; ribbon bracelets. |
Hair | Large combs; centre part; close to head; spreading over ears. |
1853 – 1860 | |
Bodice | Front fastening (near middle of decade); some buttons; some jacket-style, flare over skirt. |
Neckline | Broad collar; narrower collars at the end of period. |
Sleeves | Flowing wide at the wrists, worn over white undersleeve; some full sleeves gathered into wristband in less formal dresses. |
Skirt | Wider; fuller, gathered or pleated; some flounces; skirt worn over a hoop by end of the decade. |
Accessories | Decoration of dress, ornamental hair jewellery. |
Hair | Centre part; wide above the ears, then droops over ears. |
1860 – 1865 | |
Bodice | Front buttons; pointed or round waists; military trim |
Neckline | High, narrow, round collar, some V necks with lapels |
Sleeves | Armhole over shoulder, some gathered into the wrist; some wide bell; some coat sleeves wider at elbow; variety of styles. |
Skirt | Full, pleated, some looped up to expose underskirt; worn over hoop. |
Accessories | Shawls, hair nets, wide belts; elaborate earrings and brooches. |
Hair | Centre part; covers most of ear, plain or braid around; short ringlets. |
1866 – 1868 | |
Bodice | Front buttons; short waist; slightly raised waistline. |
Neckline | High with narrow round or pointed collar; lace or ribbon tie. |
Sleeves | Armhole over shoulder, narrow coat sleeve. |
Skirt | Broad A-line shape over hoop, few pleats in front. |
Accessories | Shawls. |
Hair | Centre part; pulled tightly back above the ears, piled high in back. |
1869 – 1874 | |
Bodice | Trim such as ruffles; prominent buttons large, not flat. |
Neckline | High with low stand collar or V neck with ruffles. |
Sleeves | Armhole over shoulder; wider coat sleeves with cuff effects; moderate bell with trim or ruffles. |
Skirt | Trimmed apron-like overskirt with bustle over trimmed underskirt; large bustle. |
Accessories | Black velvet neck ribbon with brooch or charm; large lockets and crosses; jet beads; earrings and necklace matched. |
Hair | Centre part; use of false hair; large hair combs; some hair curled at forehead; long hair streaming down back with hair braided at crown. |
1875 – 1877 | |
Bodice | Often ruffles around neckline and down front. |
Neckline | Front opening, low stand collar; or V neck with ruffles. |
Sleeves | Sleeves narrower, still cuff trim. |
Skirt | Long overskirt effects, bustle less large; trains common. |
Accessories | Large button earrings; large hair combs. |
Hair | Centre part; frizzed at forehead; braided high at back. |
1878 – 1882 | |
Bodice | Front buttons; flat, large round or oval buttons; bodice extends over hips. |
Neckline | High with low stand collar. |
Sleeves | Sleeves narrower. |
Skirt | Fell straight from hip to floor. |
Accessories | Fans, parasols. |
Hair | Centre part; frizzing, low at back. |
1883 – 1889 | |
Bodice | Fastening obscured; ends at or near natural waist. |
Neckline | High neck with moderate stand collar. |
Sleeves | Tight to arm in 1890 with kick-up at shoulder becoming fuller each year. |
Skirt | Drapery gradually smoothes out to stiff columnar shape. |
Accessories | Muffs, jewellery. |
Hair | Frizzed around forehead; bun in back |
1890 – 1892 | |
Bodice | Fastening obscured; ends at or near natural waist. |
Neckline | High neck with moderate stand collar. |
Sleeves | Tight to arm in 1890 with kick-up at shoulder becoming fuller each year. |
Skirt | Drapery gradually smoothes out to stiff columnar shape. |
Accessories | Round brooch, small earrings, watch pinned to bosom; large fans, large parasols |
Hair | Frizzed around face; bun on top of head |
1893 – 1896 | |
Bodice | Fastening obscured; ruffles over shoulders; gathers in bodice. |
Neckline | High collar to chin with bow at side back. |
Sleeves | Ruffles, large balloon “leg-o-mutton” shapes on upper arm; tight below. |
Skirt | Smooth at hip front/sides; gradual flare to stiff A-line effect; sometimes trim at the hem. |
Accessories | Feather boa, large fans, parasols. |
Hair | Frizzed, curled around face, bun in back. |
1897 – 1900 | |
Bodice | Asymmetrical, horizontal drapery, blouse-like fullness overhangs waist at centre front. |
Neckline | High collar to chin, bow at side back of neck. |
Sleeves | Decreasing, first small ball-shaped fullness at top, then tight, flaring over hand. |
Skirt | Smooth at hips, front/sides; broad A-line becomes slimmer, may flare out below knees. |
Accessories | Round brooch, small earrings, watch pinned to bosom; small decorative combs high on back of head visible from front. |
Hair | Soft but smoother around face, less frizzing; drawn into back bun. |
1901 – 1903 | |
Bodice | Pouched front pronounced. |
Neckline | High collar to chin. |
Sleeves | Fullness increasing year by year on lower arm of above cuff only. |
Skirt | Smooth at hip front/sides; flares from knee down. |
Hair | Soft but smoother around face, less frizzing; drawn into back bun. |
1904 – 1907 | |
Bodice | Pouched front continues over wider waistband. |
Neckline | High collar to chin; a few collarbone level in summer. |
Sleeves | 1904: fullness on upper and lower arms; 1905-07: fullness only on upper, sleeves appear to be made in upper and lower sections. |
Skirt | Smooth at hips or soft gathers or pleats; generally less slim. |
Hair | Gradually gaining width around the face; coiled in back. |
1908 – 1914 | |
Bodice | Vertical trim effects, small square or round dickey effects; waistline often slightly raised. |
Neckline | High collar to chine or round/square to collarbone. |
Sleeves | Increasingly tight and plain; some imitate tight lace undersleeves. |
Skirt | Increasing slim, straight no gathers, feet show. |
Hair | Some centre parts; puffed put wide at sides to support big hats. |